Wednesday, May 16, 2018

Blanding Utah to Page Arizona, Rainbow Bridge


2018-14

Blanding Utah
Page Arizona
Lone Rock lake Powell Utah
Glen Canyon


Rainbow Bridge, the grand adventure!


Campground: Recapture Lake Recreation Area., Blanding. Boondocking. Free, not hookups. Camping is free on either side of the lake, off of Radio Road.



Campground: Lone Rock Lake Powell, Utah. Almost Boondocking site. Cost: $7 senior rate. They do have a dump station and water available. Paved road leading to lake. All sites are dispersed campsites. I took one on top, though many campers line up along the edge of the lake. During my time here, it has been very windy and sand was blowing especially down along the sandy beach lake front.



Distance traveled: 175 miles


After leaving the Navajo Dam site in New Mexico, I drove into Colorado 30 minutes later and an hour and a half later, I was in Utah. After all, I truly am in the 4 corners region where Az/Ut/Co/ and Nm meet up.

I passed so many places I’ve had the pleasure of visiting in the past, but this year I’d like to explore a bit more of Utah, and we can only tarry so long before one realizes the summer is over with. My first stop in Utah is Blanding, where I’ll dry camp (boondocking) for a couple of days. I had planned on going to a national forest site I’d been to in the past, but when I got there, even though it is listed online as first come/first served camping, all the campsites (even the empty ones) of which there were plenty. Had signs posted on them that the site was reserved, most indicating only a couple of days, but still, I couldn’t take a spot and the camp-host was no where to be found.

boondocking available on both sides of the lake
Fortunately this area has a lot of other BLM and national forest campsites to be had and I drove a couple miles down the road to the Recapture Lake site. One tenter was in the dispersed camping area, and after an unsuccessful attempt to drive the truck and camper through a grove of cedar trees and rutted sandy roads, I settled on a location overlooking the lake. Wide open spaces are the best.

One of my day trips was to the Natural Bridges National Monument. Hwy 95 itself was an awesome route to take as it dipped deep down into large canyons, back up over huge mesas some that appeared to be 10 times larger than any I’d seen in New Mexico. Awesome rock formations along the way kept me busy oewhing and awhhing all the way to natural bridges.

hwy 95, Utah what a scenic drive

hwy 95 what a wonder western drive

This is a small park, with a newly paved single lane, one way loop road to the three main natural bridges in the park. Lots of view points and hiking trails leading deep down onto the canyon floor for viewing the natural bridges up close. Lots of European, Austrian and Canadian visitors. French motorcycle riders were everywhere as these roads with all their dips, turns, and surprising views along the way are a motorcyclist’s dream.

Great views and enjoyed talking to all the travelers enjoying the scenery.





















Back in Blanding I stopped off at the excellent visitors center and got some great tips about things to see and do in the area. The Navajo fry bread/taco is a must. Topped with chili/beans lettuce/tomato/ black olives and cheese along with salsa and cream cheese.

Many of the canyons feature Indian ruins, I even saw some cliff dwellings while touring the Natural Bridges site. The visitor center in Blanding gave me a lowdown of where many are located close by as well as additional options for camping in the area. There wasn’t a corner or canyon of this region as arid as it is that wasn’t inhabited by Anasazi (ancient Native Indian stone adobe builders) They told me this is a very safe area to boon-dock as well.

Note:  no photos available, lost photos, having major issues with Google Photos, unable to upload photos!!!!

Speaking of my campsite, with it’s water views, mountains and a mesa near by, on my second day here, except for the occasional boater, sunbather or brave swimmer as the water is still very cold, it is mostly very quiet. To the point that I have not experienced a location like this in quite some time. Along with having no camping neighbors, at least for the present, I have no Tv, cellphone, or internet connectivity at the campsite. The stillness and serenity at first is almost overwhelming. As I rarely ever experience places such as this. And I doubt you have either. Often, from what I’ve observed with boondocking, even though your not connected to utilities, one often has fellow campers near by. The lack of internet and cell phone service at the campsite means I am truly disconnected. Not being able to research my next route and camping options, linking up with all my friends and relatives on Facebook and e-mail hasn’t happened in quite some time. Fortunately a short drive into town and I’m re-connected with the world.

There’s a stillness about the camper as well. Except for when I have the ceiling fan running, it too is quiet. No A/C running or the hum of electronic devices. Only the sound of a wall clock ticking away. Fortunately, even though it has gotten up to around 85 degrees today, the camper has remained relatively cool, with a gentle breeze blowing all day off of the lake. Windows and ceiling vents all open to enjoy the refreshing air flow. I’ve even turned off the radio as I’m enjoying the peacefulness of it all. Sitting outside in the shade of the camper, reading a book or reviewing and editing my photos for future blog or Facebook use. An afternoon siesta can always be fit in as well.

Edge of the Cedars State Park



extremely rare The highlight being a Macaw feather sash



Also on display was a rare Turkey feather blanket
including one with it’s feathers intact
and one showing just the skeletal frame 
Almost forgot to tell you about a neat exhibit at the Edge of the Cedars SP. As I’m heading to Lake Powell which was created by the making of the Glen Canyon Dam, it was interesting to see a display of photos of some wonderful Indian petroglyphs that have been flooded once the dam was built. Along with many Indian pueblo’s and settlements along the original water way. Sad to think they will remain buried under hundreds of feet of water, but that is progress. The State Park also has quite a collection of local ancient artifacts, many clay pots from era’s going as far back as a couple thousand years. The highlight being a Macaw feather sash. The Pueblo Indians traded often with the Mexican Aztec tribes and Live Macaws were a cherished item. Their feathers were only worn by the most elite in the Indian tribe. Also on display was a rare Turkey feather blanket including one with it’s feathers intact and one showing just the skeletal frame they would have been woven onto. Such rare finds that rarely if ever would have survived more than a thousand years.

Distance Traveled: 198 miles




Monument Valley, this is the classic shot
often used in TV adds, magazines etc.


Well all good intentions to stop along the way for a couple of days in the Mexican Hat area to revisit places such as Valley of the Gods, Monument Valley, Gooseneck State Park and all those awesome places throughout the area before heading to Lake Powell and Page Arizona. But my efforts were thwarted once I got to Mexican Hat, as they didn’t have any campgrounds in the almost non-exsistant town. Come to find out it was the previous town I’d passed through, Bluff Utah, that has all the Rv parks. Go figure. I could have stayed at Gooseneck SP ( no utilities)or even a campsite in Valley of the Gods (again no utilities) , but since my final destination, Lake Powell was beckoning, I continued on. Of course stopping when ever I could to take pictures along the way. Monument Valley fortunately had a number of pull offs to take those all important photos.

I did note that Monument Valley now has a KOA campground, but as my fellow Rv-ers may know, they are often overpriced and this one only had picnic table at each site, with hookups of course, but basically desert setup like a large dirt parking lot.

Lake Powell


Glen Canyon Dam

So, it was onto Page Arizona and my campsite for a couple of day at Lone Rock Lake Powell Utah. It being right on the Arizona/Utah boarder. After a few false starts, as I was attempting to get to a visitor center or BLM office for more information of local camping options (no luck there), I ended up heading directly to a the campground I’d selected. I was a bit concerned about heading onto dirt roads to get to the boon-docking site, but as it turned out, the road leading to the camping area is newly paved, with park office as well. There was a $7 charge per night for camping (half off senior rate) as this is a part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The other campground next to the marina on the lake charges around $45 a night for hookups.

Lone Rock site also beach camping available
it was really windy, lots of sand blowing so didn't stay on the beach below

How was my first day at Lone Rock. Hot and windy. Really hot, it got up to 98 degrees and the winds were around 35-40 mph. Range. Not the most pleasant of experiences, but I survived. I of course have had to leave the windows open, so everything is getting a good dusting of fine sand. There will be a couple of days of cleaning for sure once I leave the area. Fortunately the last two days in the area the weather cooled off and the winds settled down considerably.

Page Arizona


The town of Page Az (originally called Government Camp) got it’s start in 1957 as a land exchange with Navajo Nation. It was created to provide a housing settlement for the creation of the Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River. Along with the dams largest hydo power plant in the U.S. there is also a coal fired electric plant as well, both producing an enormous amount of electric power for the region. It’s a modern town of 9,000 with an additional three million visitors each year.

I’m on the Utah side and there’s a one hour difference in time zones, so every time I go into Page, it’s an hour earlier and often many of the places I want to go are still closed early morning.

The Big Adventure
Rainbow Bridge Boat Tour ($117)


the beginning of the adventure,
a 6+ hour boat tour of over 100 miles round trip

Lake Powell







It was up and early for my on Sunday as the tour would begin at 7:30 and I needed to sign in by 7 am. After packing a lunch and some snacks I headed over to the Lake Powell Lodge. The tour boat had inside seating and enough room for 35 passengers above deck. I chose the lower section since the morning temps were to be a bit on the cool side and I’d be able to take pictures not only through the windows, open windows as well as the back deck of the boat. And it was less crowded than up top.

Out tour would take us on a 100 mile round trip journey over water and last 6+ hours. The ride through the Glen Canyons of Lake Powell in and of itself would have been an awesome boat ride, but ours includes the famous Rainbow Bridge. Of the 3 million visitors that come here each year, most go to see the famous Slot Canyons run by the Navajo Tribe. But 200,000 visitor each year take the 6 hour or longer journey to see one of the largest arches/natural bridges in the word, the Rainbow Bridge. The red and tan sandstone canyons leading us deeper and deeper up into Lake Powell were an every changing landscape of buttes, shear cliff walls, strange shapes and the beginning of crescent shaped rock formation as slices of the sandstone get worn away or come crashing down over millions of years.

The Rainbow Bridge began it’s formation over 30 million years ago when the earth’s crust uplifted Navajo Mountain. From there, mother nature took over with wind, rain fast moving rivers and streams carving away at Rainbow Bridge.

Up until the 1960’s one would have to hike up from the Colorado River for 6 miles, or hike 12-20 miles around Navajo Mt and through many canyons to get to the bridge. Today, a three hour ride one way on a fast moving boat and a one mile hike brings me to the Rainbow Bridge. Legend has it that a rainbow was turned to stone. The bridge was re-discovered in recent history in 1909 after hearing many Native Indian stories about Rainbow Bridge. Some of the famous people who first saw it were, John Wetherill, Theodore Roosevelt, and Zane Grey author of many western books. He is even noted for having slept overnight on top of the Rainbow Arch.

my first view of the Rainbow Bridge along the one mile hike to the site


The bridge is 290 feet above of the creek, 275 feet across the canyon. 33 feet wide and 42 feet thick. 
A 25 story building would sit comfortably under the arch. It’s definitely the largest natural bridge I’ve ever seen. The trip did not seem long at all considering the time it took to get there and back. Fortunately we had plenty of time to take our pictures and actually sit or walk around the viewing area and see it from as many angles as possible. With light fluffy clouds changing the scenery by the minutes, with shade and sunlight playing off the surrounding cliffs and Rainbow Bridge itself.

Gosh, I sure did enjoy today’s adventure. I think I’ll have many pleasant memories of this trip for some time to come along with looking back at the 260+ photos I took today. Hope you enjoy them as much as I did. Though I realize the enormous size of the canyons, sandstone cliffs and the Rainbow Bridge may not be able to be appreciated until you get a chance to see it in person. But in any case, enjoy seeing a few of these awesome places through my eyes and hoping you get to experience some of them one day yourself.

first views of Rainbow Bridge

the rainbow that was turned to stone


the mile hike to the site made it all that much more impressive

before the dam was built and Lake Powell was created
one would have to hike many miles to get to the site



walking the trail from the boat landing site







More Photos:

Blanding Utah  Natural Bridges National Monument, Utah

RAINBOW BRIDGE, LAKE POWELL


Rainbow Bridge and Glen Canyon/Lake Powell (Arizona/Utah)  (NOT AVAILABLE, UNABLE TO UPLOAD TO GOOGLE PHOTOS)  (may not be able to share photos anymore using Google photos)

Not sure what to do now that I'm no longer able to upload to Google photos..... Bummer.


Sunday, May 6, 2018

2018-13 Bloomfield, Aztec and Farmington New Mexico



2018-13

Bloomfield New Mexico
Aztec
Farmington


Navajo Lake State Park, New Mexico


Campground: Navajo Lake State Park. $4 for electric, since I have the yearly park pass. 30 amp electric w/water and lake views. Three campgrounds, two on lake, one, Cottonwood, is below the dam along the river. Nice shaded sites.

high up on a cliff overlooking the lake


Distance traveled: 79 miles



the marina has had a $3 million dollar upgrade with
lots of options for getting out on the water, dining
and houseboat rentals


Again, I’ve been in this area previously visiting Chaco Canyon NP, Salmon Ruins and Aztec Ruins. All great ancient pueblo sites and history. I’m hoping to explore more remote sites, weather permitting as I only have a two wheel drive truck and the dirt roads can become slick and treacherous with some rain expected this week.

Speaking of treacherous, there are three ways to get to Navajo Lake, hwy 527, 539 and 511. I took hwy 539 and ended up driving across the high earthen dam. A narrow half moon shaped road with steep drop off’s on either side of the dam. No guard rails either. Fortunately, no traffic was on the crossing, as I drove right down the center of the two lane road, towing the camper. Not a good route for anyone with vertigo or fear of heights. The other main route hwy 511 will bring you on a route taking one up or down the steep sloping side of the earthen dam. Another route that has no guard rails on the exposed side of the road. But a bit more doable. Coming down the side of the dam, I often wait for no traffic coming up the dam side and drive again right down the middle of the two lane road. Less stress for sure.

the cottonwoods early spring growth
along the San Juan River below the dam

What I do just to get a pretty campsite sometimes. Actually the Cottonwood campground down on the lower rivers edge would be great especially during hotter weather as it has lots of shade among the cottonwood trees and close to the river where fly fishing is very popular.

With the recent rain showers, I’ve enjoyed the scent of the cedar trees and sage brush coming through the open windows of the truck. As well as the subtle fresh smell of rain in a dry desert environment. Isn't retirement great when you have the time to enjoy the simplest of pleasures.

I picked up my mail, which I usually have delivered along the way, general delivery to the local post office. I had 9 letters containing medical bills. I always wait until I receive the providers bill as well as Blue Cross/Blue shield billings.. If they match, I pay the bill. And I received new checks so I must be rich again, cause I have a slew of new checks to use. Yippee.

the small community Navajo Dam below the dam

neat painting by local artist/owner of many business's
in the Navajo Dam settlement

With the recent news about the two black men who were put in handcuffs for sitting in a Starbucks without ordering anything and being refused access to the restrooms, I’ve noticed most all businesses out west have large signs indicating that “No Public Restrooms” available. Yet, when I go inside, no one questions me when I say I’m going to use the restroom before ordering lunch, or what ever.

I’ve checked with the local BLM regional office as well as the Forest Service office in the area asking about locations for free camping, or other park campsites in the area. I must say, they were less than forthcoming with information. The BLM guest services guy even looked at me like I was asking a crazy question. I guess I’ll have to rely on Internet searches and Facebook groups for help.

many oil and gas rigs throughout this area


This area of New Mexico (north west corner of the state) has lots of oil and gas wells throughout the region. They tell me it’s not as busy as previous boom years, yet I do see lots of white service trucks with their distinctive red/orange flags driving along all back roads servicing those oil wells and the many pipelines that crisscross the landscape. There’s even a well fenced in in the center of the campground I’m at. When eastern oil wells lower their prices, often these wells are temporarily closed down until prices go back up, making it profitable to once again pump oil and gas deposits.

I visited the Farmington visitor center and museum. They have an interesting display on dinosaurs as this region is noted for many dinosaur bone discoveries. A neat display showed one such find that included the skin of a duckbilled dinosaur. With a touch and feel display… how cool. Also they found a fossilized duckbill that was later CT-scaned and they were able to recreate a 3D model of the duckbill head and produce the sound it might have made. Listening to the deep rich sounds like a bassoon instrument was like being transported back 66 million years to the time when it walked the land and made it’s unique calls.

first time I've seen a fossil of dinosaur skin, wow


and had a replica that simulated the actual
sound the duckbill dinosaur might have made

the trading post became a link between the Indian culture
and the white man's culture


Bisti / De-Na-Zin, a BLM Wilderness area.


Bisti De-Na-Zin Wilderness


Talk about a drive into the country. From my campsite at Navajo Lake through Bloomfield and Farmington, I headed south on hwy 371 for about 30 minutes. This in Navajo Nation Land and contains many of those circular irrigated farm lands. All controlled by the Navajo Nation. The land previously was high desert, dried out short prairie grasses. The Wilderness area sits on one side of the highway, with a parking lot about a mile in along a rough dirt road. Forget trying to keep the truck clean while out here. After parking and checking out some signage with a map of the area, I took off hiking into this inhospitable landscape. A number of other explores were also wandering the unusual scenery, passing each other, we reminded each other to be careful and not get lost. As there are not paths to follow and after walking a distance from the parking lot, one could easily become disoriented. The morning was actually a perfect as the temperatures were very cool, with a crystal clear blue sky and no wind. This landscape could become unbearably hot on most summer days in a very short amount of time. Without any paths to guide one to the more notable sites, I did not stay all that long. Walking into bare canyons, noting the harsh dry ground and odd formations was enough for me in small doses.














a most strange landscape


Besides, I was ready to go into Farmington a rather nice sized town with lots of decent restaurants and shops.

heading back to Farmington


Simon Canyon




Back at the campsite, Navajo Lake, the next day I was able to do a much closer hike into Simon Canyon. Driving down through the small community below the dam, past the Cottonwood campground with all of the cottonwood’s showing off their new light green leaves, along a three mile sandy dirt road. Stopping at the end of the road in a parking lot. I would hike the little more than one mile each way, up an old mining road to the top of the mesa, past an oil well derrick. The path, if you could call it that, basically ran along the top edge of the mesa overlooking Simon Canyon. Squeezing around boulders, past pinon pines and cedar trees, stopping to marvel at the scenery, I finally made it to the Navajo Pueblito. A 1700-1775 stone room atop a large boulder. It would have contained perhaps a single Navajo family and was considered remote and vulnerable to attack by Apache in the area. A few years ago there was a sturdy rope hanging down that one could climb up, using notches in the rock wall for feet and hand holds. It’s considered in very good condition and even still has it’s original log beamed roof. The National Park system has stabilized it, to preserve it in such excellent condition.

hiking up the old mining road to the top of Simon Canyon

cracked rock on edge of canyon

the single room pueblito with original roof

across the canyon, the moon is setting

at one time there was a knotted rope you could climb
since removed

built by a Navajo family



although it's not that old, 1700-1775, imagine a Navajo
family building this just before our forefathers created
the Document for Independence....










There are a number of small pueblo settlements in the area all off the beaten path for exploring, including over 300 sandstone arches. All requiring a high clearance truck, preferably with 4 wheel drive.

I would have liked to have joined a caravan to some remote archaeological sites the curators of the Salmon Ruins adobe site in Bloomfield will be going on in a couple of weeks, but it looks like I’ll be well on my way out of the state by then.

early morning view of Navajo Lake


But it will be time to move onto the next destination, the south eastern corner of Utah. With lots more adventures to come. After a busy morning getting an oil/filter change and rotating the truck tires, I was also able to pick up a few prescriptions for eye drops (glaucoma), have lunch and get back to the campsite to enjoy a delightful afternoon overlooking the lake.

More photos: