(7) Gonzales Texas, an Elks Rv park

Gonzales Texas
Elks Care Rv Park

Zipping along after a cold front moved across Texas and into Louisiana that brought lots of rain, I was able to travel through Houston on Sunday. If you tow a camper or drive a big rig, you know what good luck that is. Houston’s highway system would normally be completely congested, but traveling through on Sunday, it was a breeze. I was able to take I-10 right through the city without having to use the outer loops and except for needing to watch closely which lane to be in, it was rather exciting to see the high rises and the myriad of overpasses curving one on top of the other.
Oh, a big aid in driving in Texas, is that they print the highway numbers right on the pavement, so you know well in advance, which lanes you need to be in. Right on Texas.

I wasn’t able to stay at the Palmetto State Park, because it had some flooding issues along the banks of the river, so I was directed not more than a block away, to the Elks Care Rv Park. A simple Rv park across from a Children’s rehabilitation hospital run by the Elks. The Rv park is only $14.00 a night for non members. I also discovered that the Palmetto Park had lots of mosquitoes, so being in the Elks park up on a slight hill, provides a nice breeze and less of the biting critters at night. It’s also one of the quietest parks I’ve ever been in. Even though I’m right next to the road, cars go by only occasionally.

The wild flowers are in full bloom and the pastures and trees have all new fresh green growth. The recent rains have been good for this part of Texas making it look lush and alive. They tell me without rain, this area can look mighty dry and dusty. You’d never know it by the way it’s looking on this spring day.

I went into the biggest town in the area, Gonzales, and discovered it was the start of Texas’s freedom stand. They shot the first canon before the Alamo and many of their sons went to the Alamo to fight. They only had one small canon that had been given to them my the Mexican Government to fight off Indians. The Mexican’s wanted it back after Texas decided it wanted it’s independence. Hence the flag with the canon saying “Come and take it”. Oh, the town has a population of about 7,200 and has many historical homes. I had a private tour by one of the local historical guides. Starting at the old Jail house, which had the last hanging in 1927. The fellow to be hanged, pleaded his innocence and said if he was hanged he would put a curse on the Court House. Since that time, the 4 clocks on the tower, would never keep the same time. A couple of years back, they finally hired someone to “fix” the clocks once and for all, and although they started to keep the same time, the Court House then was struck by lighting 3 times and other miss fortunes have occurred since then. Hmmmm.

The town of Luling has a water tower in the shape of a watermelon…… that’s about it.
Some towns are just tooooo small to write about.

I did go back to Gonzales to get a little shopping out of the way and have lunch. While at the Laundromat, a gal recommended Espinosa’s a real down home cooking restaurant. It was so good, I went back a second time.

(6) Louisiana, Mississippi

Gulf Port Mississippi, Biloxi
Iberia Louisiana

I traveled to Biloxi Miss. a couple years ago before the hurricanes devastated this area. I expected much of what I saw this time around. A couple of blocks from the Gulf inland for many miles was destroyed. From Gulf Port to Biloxi, most of the major damage has been removed, though the closer I got to Biloxi, the larger complexes are just being demolished. Of course the major casino’s are rebuilt and back in operation.

It was eerie to see trees coming back nicely, miles and miles of clean deserted beaches. But no hotels or expensive houses along the coast, no tacky T-shirt shops or fast food restaurants. Although people are rebuilding their lives and homes they don’t have the conveniences unless they drive north to around the I-10 corridor.

I talked to many people about the hurricane and it is a topic that is with them even today as reconstruction continues. The Direct TV owner told me how the Mississippi coast area has recovered so much better than New Orleans because the people in Mississippi, and the Governor ordered the National Guard to begin securing the areas and help with recovery immediately. Calling for evacuation quickly and not waiting to the last minute. He told me how the churches were the main helpers in all of it. Church members from all over the country came to Mississippi to donate their time and labor rebuilding. As an example, a single mother in his church only received about 30% of the damage because the rest was caused by flooding. She was able to purchase most of the materials with the insurance money and all of her savings. The church workers rebuilt her house with free labor and even furnished it for her.

This story was repeated many times over and the thousands of homes left standing but badly damaged were rebuilt with insurance if it covered the repairs or the aid of those church members from across the country. In Louisiana and New Orleans, the guy told me they turned back the offered aid because they expected the Government and FEMA to give them the money to rebuild. Two different states, one in full recovery mode, the other still struggling.

Oh, the campground (Magic River Campground) I’m staying at in Long Beach/ Pass Christian area is the first ever Passport America campground. It was under 10 feet of water two years ago during the hurricane. Hard to imagine. I visited the Passport America office now up the street. It was originally at the campground until flooding almost destroyed their operation. I talked to the receptionist and as we discussed my “doubling” my money at the Boomtown Casio, (I played with $12.00 and got $26.00 back!) she told me that she has seen gambling destroy many lives around this area. She personally knows people who regularly get their weekly paycheck and turn around and gamble it all away in one day. Gambling in many ways has been more devastating than the hurricane. Destroying whole families forever not just houses.
Vermilion Ville and Acadian Cultural Center.

Just a few miles down the road are two cultural centers dedicated to the telling the story of the Cajun/Creole people who make up this Mississippi Delta area. I was immersed in a full day of rides on the back water on a flat boat, made by the captain of the vessel. Touring the historic buildings that make up Vermilion Village and taking in the National parks museum and films telling the story of how the French Canadians from Nova Scotia (originally called Acadia) were forced out by the English.

Our National Park guide on the river is a character who grew up on the Delta and he and his wife raised 6 children of their own and over 40 foster children. He had lots of stories to tell, including the one about the Brazilian land owner who had two daughters getting married at the same time. Being a fan of spiders, he had thousands of “Golden Orb Spiders” brought in before the weddings. On the day before the wedding, he had his staff place them all along the grand entrance to the manor house. At day break, he had his staff dust the huge webs the spiders created with gold and silver dust. As the guests arrived, they saw a brilliant display of gold and silver webs overhead glistening in the sun. It is said that the golden orb spider like the gold dust so much, it continued to create it’s webs in gold from then on.

For a modest fee, $24.00 I was able to do the boat tour, have a yummy Cajun lunch in the Vermilion Ville with the most awesome home made bread pudding I’ve ever had. After the lunch, I wondered the village and talked with the folks providing interpretive history of the life style back in the 1800’s.

I was pleasantly surprised at the friendliness of the other visitors as well as all the staff at both locations. Louisiana is truly a place where no one is a stranger and everyone is a friend within minutes. One 85 year old gentleman, looked not a day over 60, played the fiddle and told stories about he and his 16 year bride. He was 18 when they were married and shortly afterwards had to go into the war. He played the fiddle and flirted with the gals like a young buck.

Creative Job Hint. As I was talking to the lady that does the weaving, I was reminded of a couple of friends from work who got a job on a cruise ship. Seems that the cruise ships are on the constant look out for folks with crafting skills or can teach subjects on just about anything. The gal that does the cotton weaving also creates little kits for the school children to teach them how to make rag dolls etc. I told her how easy it would be for her to translate that talent into a job aboard ship. All she needed to do was come up with a dozen “kits” to teach the passengers how to make various Cajun projects and throw in some history of the Cajun culture and she and a friend/spouse could have a free state room and journey all over the world. I think it expanded her possibilities in life. How cool is that? How about you?

I’m already in Texas and will be in San Antonio in a few days to visit with my dear friends Trine and Linda.

(5) The Panhandle of Florida

On the Road again. I love seeing the road stretching out ahead of me, leading me on to new places and destinations I’ve never been to before. Getting up early with the sun rising above the horizon. Meeting fellow travelers, some traveling only for a few days to get away from the grind of work, others like myself, exploring the world fulltime.

Heading north on hwy 19/98, I’m traveling through Dixie County and Perry Fla where I think about my dear friend Dixie Bishop. Imagine, she was named after a county or was it Dixie Crossing. I was named after a hotel, The Douglas Hotel in Northern Michigan. But being named after a county, now that’s something.

In Perry I mistakenly miss the 98 turn off heading west and just as I turn around to go back, I see a sign in front of a Baptist church that says, “If your going in the wrong direction, God permits U-turns”. Now am I being led, or what?

The dogwood trees are all in bloom along with ancient azalea bushes as thick as old dense brush in the woods. The pure white flowers of the dogwood trees stand out from the evergreen trees and new growth of the spring trees. Sometimes, it almost looks like they have light coming from inside the dogwood flowers themselves as the sun catches them and makes them glow.

I head for a state park, Ochlockonee St Pk just south of Soppchoppy. Odd I should end up here, since I remember stopping in Soppchoppy two years ago for a quick bite to eat on the side of the road. I’m back to explore the Wakulla Springs State Park. Soppchoppy is an old southern sleepy town between Tallahassee and the Gulf of Mexico.

Sitting at the campsite, in the quiet of the evening. Kids riding their small bicycles around the park, the sun setting behind the tall stand of pine trees. Many weak from the pine bark beetle over the past couple of years. Campfires blazing as families settle in for the evening. The heat of the day, quickly cooling down as the sun sets. They tell me this park is not a great place to be in the summer as yellow flies have been known to eat a man alive. Before going to bed, I go outside and stare up at the stars. There’s nothing to get in the way of viewing as there are no city lights in this park of north Florida. The stars are brilliant against the black sky boarder by pine trees off on the horizon like black silhouetted sentries.

I’m on the road. Smelling the fresh air again. Feeling the pavement beneath me. Noticing the raw beauty around every bend. Aware of the road. Does it have a shoulder, or does grass meet the pavement, with no room for error. I travel at 55 or 60 mph. Leisurely because I can. Traveling the secondary roads, where often there is little to no traffic. Hard to believe, when you’ve come from a metropolitan area. That there are still quiet roads out there to explore and get you to your destination without the hassle of the super highway. I’ll have to travel on hwy 10 soon, heading out west, but for now, I can still use those byways.

I tour Wakulla Springs which is 15 miles from Tallahassee and 15 miles from the gulf of Mexico. It’s one of the largest springs in the state and has two boat tours. I took the one down river, which was filled with wildlife along the shores. I’ve lived in Florida for over 30 years and have never seen so many alligators in one location in my life. Gators were about every 15 feet in the water and along the banks. Birds were everywhere and we even saw deer along the banks. Swimming in the 68 degree water is sparkling and refreshing, but I was leery of knowing that the gators were on the opposite shore line. Although I was told they’ve never had an incident. Oh and the park has a grand old lodge with a wonderfully painted Cypress beamed ceiling. Get there for Lunch or dinner and feel like royalty or stay the night.

I’ve arrived at my last stop in the state before heading out west. I’m in Defuniak Springs at the Juniper Lake Rv park. The owners are retired Navy and lived in Key West for about 12 years.
A side note, the lake has been drained and will take about a year to fill back up, but I understand they’ll once again have great fishing in the lake, once it comes back.

Defuniak Springs was the headquarters of the southern Chautauqua Movement which had it’s headquarters in upstate New York. It was active in and around 1910-30 era and was a movement for continuing education for adults. By gathering together educators in philosophy, theology, arts and music, elocution, cookery, amusement, instruction, recreation, society, and fellowship, the locals and visitors could expand their knowledge and become better parents and towns folk. What a great concept that could still work today.

The town still contains many historic buildings including the Hall of Brotherhood, with an auditorium that seats 4,000.

An interesting town that has the potential of becoming a center of continuing education and possibly a thriving town if the right people moved in and built it into what it could become once again. And it’s only 30 miles to the gulf of Mexico which is lined with million dollar homes along the pure white sugar sand beaches, old pine forests and lagoons along the gulf. Old Florida and New Florida all within 30 miles of each other.

I head out tomorrow and will probably travel through the southern tip of Alabama and Mississippi before settling in. Wishing you the best that’s out there.

(4) The Real Florida

Real Florida.

Avon Park area. It’s still out there, along the back roads that lead through the heart of Florida. Where cattle ranches are still the norm, orange groves fill the air this time of year with the sweet smell of orange blossoms and wild alligator and otters are a common site. One of the last campsites I was at even has range chickens and a goose named Waldo. Waldo only eats white bread. They even offer free eggs to the campers!

Orlando, Moss Park. I was only able to stay in the Orlando area two nights, due to a change in space availability at Moss Park. This sometimes happens, and I should have planned ahead and begged friends in the area to make advance reservations for me. Moss Park, like so many county parks, require advance reservations be made in person and usually with cash only.

I was able to have dinner with my dear friend Patrick and the next day, I visited former neighbors at The Ranch House Estates, a mobile home park I once lived in. My MH has since been torn down, destroyed by the new owners in less than a year. It’s not a vacant sand lot, waiting for another home to be moved in.

So now I’m back in the Dade City and Zephyr Hills area at Grove Ridge Estates. I small Rv park that also happens to be a Passport America member, so I’m only paying $14 a night. Half of the seasonal’s are from Michigan and the other from NY and Canada. My Sister, Dorothy and husband Dave joined me and I gave them a tour of one of my favorite areas in rural Florida.
The truck needed the spark plug wires replaced, which should have been done the same time as I had new spark plugs installed recently. Oh, and I needed to replace the water pump on the camper, for when I’m dry camping. It’s also convenient when on the road. After all, I don’t need to use public restrooms to freshen up if I don’t want to. Just stop on the side of the road, and I have my own private, well maintained facilities.

Chiefland Fl. I arrived in Chiefland on the west coast of Florida. This area of Florida is marshy, so you don’t actually see the gulf of Mexico unless you drive an additional 30 some miles. Chiefland is one of those truly old southern towns that has that rural feel to it.
I visited Manatee Springs State park and checked out their campsites. The park was the first springs designated a state park in Florida, back in 1949. So the campsites are like an old hunting camp style. Dirt roads winding around trees, each campsite is just a dirt clearing in the woods. Big rig units should avoid the loop on the right hand side, as there are some tight curves with trees real close to the road way.

Manatee Springs is a Magnum 1 springs, the largest of the natural springs, with a constant 72 degree temperature. As nice of a day as it was, I did not jump in the water, as refreshing as it looked. It would be a great place in the middle of the summer. The canoe and kayak rentals do not start until April 1st, so as not to disturb the manatee, which I did not get to see today. However, the springs going into the Santa Fe River is so clear, I could see turtles, Sturgeon gliding through crystal clear water, between the green sea grasses and leaping fish… what are they’re names??

Cedar Key. About a 30 mile drive from hwy 19 and Chiefland. It’s a lonely drive to Cedar Key, passing miles of coastal scrub, pine forests and mash land. Cedar key, is along the west coast of Florida and is nothing like the Florida keys. It’s more like an old time fishing community, with a few small hotels, some neat cottages going for as little as $59.00 a night. If you’re a fisherman, this is your place. The town is pretty sleepy, a number of the shops were closed in the middle of the week, including the Florida Museum which is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. A small beach is available next to the marina and restaurants along the Gulf shore.

A few small fishing charters and a small tour boat (holds about 6 people) along with kayak and canoe rentals will get you out on the water and to one of the island preserves off shore.
It’s a great place if you want to completely get away from the world for a while.

I did find a county park just outside of Cedar Key called Shell Mound County Park. It’s off of CR 347 and onto CR-326. Camping is $15.30 for campers and $10.20 for tenters with electric. They have a free boat ramp as well. It’s a first come first serve campground, so plan on coming here during the middle of the week and stay for the 7 day limit. It’s a shot distance to the Timucuan Indian shell mound. It’s a part of the larger National Wildlife Refuge, but has no interpretive material or signs (they‘ve been destroyed), so your on your own to discover this, the largest prehistoric shell midden along the Gulf Coast.

I’m heading towards the Panhandle of Florida tomorrow and will stay there for about 4-5 days exploring more Florida springs.

Discover the wonder of life within and explore it around you everyday.

(2) Florida Keys, Marathon

Florida Keys, Marathon (part 2)

Solar update. I had a local company, SALT, come out and evaluate my Solar setup because it didn’t appear to me that the batteries were getting charged properly. Come to find out, the “Controller” which is about 10 ft away from the batteries, was getting a reduced signal from the batteries as to how well they were charging, so it reduced the charge level to the batteries. After attaching larger gauge wires from the controller to the batteries, the batteries are now getting up to a full charge. Well worth having experts review and check out the system.

The Island. On Wednesday, Rusty and Jeff, who are managing Tropical Cottages invited a couple of us out to “The Island” for an afternoon of fishing, sunning and a sunset dinner. I of course jumped at the chance, as my friend Eric had invited me many times out to the island, but things always got in the way. And since the place has a buyer and there’ll be a closing on the island soon, approx selling price 2.5 million, we took advantage of the situation and had one last hurrah from the island.

It’s a short distance from the Marathon mainland, but feels a hundred miles removed from the hustle and bustle of town. We rode over on a great skiff arriving at the islands only dock. Did I mention, it’s only big enough to snuggly fit one house on it. Surrounded by native vegetation from mangroves to palms. We entered from a covered wooden walkway to the screened in porch, filled with comfy wicker furniture with big stuffed cushions, through French doors into the main open living area. A wood beamed ceiling, with a country kitchen off to one side, pots and pans dangling from S curved wooden holders, to the main salon, with massive couches made of bamboo 8” thick.

After turning on Jimmy Buffet on the CD player, we explored the rest of the cottage, two tropical bedrooms, one with a master bathroom with a shower that jutted out the side of the building with floor to ceiling glass and views of the vegetation and bay outside, the other with white netting draped over the bed. Heaven.

A wooden walkway surrounded the green and white trimmed cottage on the coquina rock island and led down to two outdoor decks, over looking the west and our sunset view.
Shortly after arriving, others began trickling in, many like me had never experienced this island and it magical charm that hits you the minute you step onto the dock. We sun bathed out on the deck, swam in the shallow waters, fished, and talked about the best parts of life. Someone was talking about getting old, and then asked what is old these days? I said,,,,, “old is when you’re no longer having fun”. None of us were old that day on the island.

As the sun set, many saw the green flash, the talk subsided, as we listened to Buffet singing about a lifestyle many of us cherish, the red sun melted into the gulf and a breeze confirmed night had arrived. Dining on BBQ chicken, Fresh tuna and grouper, topped off with key lime pie.
We continued the evening watching the stars pop out against a black sky with clouds drifting by. The young couple just starting their life together, living on a 42ft sail boat. The Canadian couple who are into meditation and bring their own sunshine with them. Rusty and Jeff, Doug and Mary and HD all Florida Conchs.

We finally left the island later in the evening, but the magic remains.

Campers Note: Sigsbee Rv park, on the Key West Naval base is no longer open to D.o.D. civilians for camping. The base Commander made the decision a couple of weeks ago. Bummer.

(1) Central Florida, 2007 Preparing For Travel

West Central Florida

Feb 2007

Preparing for Summer Travels

Many people who have become full-time campers, usually winter in one place. Mexico, AZ, Texas and Florida being a favorite destination. I’ve been nesting here in Florida.
It’s always nice to meet up with my buddies who have been traveling during the summer or working, and getting the time to catch up on their lives and adventures. Spending time around campfires, BBQ’s, or playing domino’s. A fun game for campers. Mexican Train or Chicken are favorites.

The areas that attract many campers are the interior areas of Florida. Places that most tourists never see. We’re talking about secondary routes like hwy’s 27, 98, 19, and 301. Running north south through Florida. These are more rural areas and you can still see some of the fun old sites built when car travel was an adventure and not a torture getting to work. Like the dinosaur car repair shop, or another dinosaur just sitting along the side of the road in Spring Hills. Zephyrhills has a Mc Donald’s that looks like one of the original double arch designs. When you go inside, it’s an awesome design with dark leather club chairs and retro look everywhere. And the inevitable push of “progress”. Seeing the bulldozers lined up in a row, waiting to make one more pasture or forest into a subdivision. Oh, and Dade City, just down the street has a kumquat festival this time of year. There little bitty orange type fruit.

Old Florida Attractions are still around like Weeki Wachee Springs home of the mermaids, Homosassa Springs and Silver Springs where many of the Tarzan movies were filmed.
Roving Reports (3rd Year) Begins NOW.

But wait, I was going to talk about getting ready for the summer camping season. I’ll be traveling out of Florida after I get some solar panels installed. More about that when I have it done. Then I’ll take you along on my journey out west again, where we’re going to explore Texas, AZ and all the states along the way until we reach Wyoming.

Planning is fairly loose with me. I like to have a basic plan of where I’m going with a few key places to visit and then discovering unexpected places as I find them along the way. Having good paper maps along with campground books are essential, but I find some online resources are becoming more helpful every day. I use Microsoft’s Streets and Maps for mapping out my routes. A really great tool.

Before heading out this spring I’ll be traveling around Florida to visit with family and friends one more time before heading out of state. I’ll be heading to the Keys on March 2nd and will stay about a week. Then for all my friends in Orlando, I’ll be heading your way around the 10 of March and will stay in the area for about two weeks. So e-mail me if you’d like to get together. I’ll probably have a cook out at Moss Park when I arrive. I’ll be spending some time with my Sister and Brother-in-Law and their kin as well.

Here’s to dreaming about new adventures and travels. But don’t just dream, get out those plans and start working on your next adventure.

Fun Camping Tip. A good friend of mine, David L., often flies to a destination with a small tent as a part of his baggage, sleeping bag and other basics. Then he rents a car and camps out for a week or so before going back to work. A cheap way to vacation and see the world. He’s able to get cheap tickets by using a major airline credit card for all purchases throughout the year and builds flying miles with every purchase. Of course he’s very disciplined in paying the bill each month.

Camping World (Near Tampa) for solar panels March 1st
Marathon Fla March 2nd - 10
Orlando area (Moss Park) March 12 - 25
Cedar Key/Chiefland area March 26-28
Panhandle of Fla March 29