2021-12
Northern Wisconsin Lake Superior
Thoughts on The
Apostle Islands National LakeShore
Campground: Washburn and Bayfield. Both towns have city campgrounds. Washburn has two. $35 approx for hook-ups and $20 for dry campsites. I stayed at the Washburn campground and couldn’t get any electric site, most all are filled up quickly. Dry campsite, overlooking bay. Nice views, good weather.
The Apostle Islands National LakeShore
The 21 islands making up the Apostle Islands National LakeShore became a park in 1970. Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostle Islands is not a part of the National Park and is inhabited by mostly seasonal cottages and a small number of year round residences. Served by multiple ferry’s during the summer months. Ice bridges are used during the winter months for traveling to and from the mainland. Though with weather changes, that is becoming less of an option for shorter winter crossings.
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| Private fishing and charter boats |
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| Bayfield Wisconsin |
The main way to experience the islands is by concessionaire boat tours, kayak or private chartered boats. I found it odd that the national park is referred to as National Lakeshore. Yes it’s main features and interest are the sandstone arches, caves and caverns created by the constant wave action. But the park is actually made up of the 21 islands themselves. Which are not accessible by the main concessionaire boat rides. Limited access for hiking and camping are available by kayak or private boats. Though I’m not sure how excited I’d be to camp on many of the islands as a few have been noted for having the largest number of bear population per acre of any place in America.
Reservations are required and available online mainly. Of course I took a chance by getting to the visitor center early one day and being only one person, was able to hitch a ride that morning. What did I think of the boat tour. I took the longest of the boat tours, past a couple lighthouses, and the impressive sandstone arches and caverns. But much of the two and a half hour ride was open water, constant narrative pointing out the various islands, sizes, types of trees and plants and animal life, and oh, look there’s an eagle and two baby eagles. Ok, call me a bit bored with it all. That and a bit paranoid whether I’d made the right decision going on a cruise with lots of other people with no face coverings and did they really all have their two covid shots as I had?
The few stories about the inhabitants of the islands and the 5 remaining hold outs currently still living on National Park land, with long term leases that will one day end were interesting. The park has preserved the lighthouses as well as a couple of the sites like the fish camp and the remains of a sandstone quarry.
To me I guess it comes down to seeing it from afar, but not actually being able to visit any of the islands easily within the national park. I think I would have enjoyed taking one of the ferries over to Madeline Island and seeing the locals and their cottages just as much if not more so. Exploring what it’s like to actually live on an island for the summer or for those few year-around residences.
Back on the Bayfield peninsula, the small towns are kind of neat. Not overly touristy, some good local restaurants that aren’t all about fancy meals and expensive prices. There’s even a casino on up a bit further that does have a campground with full hook-ups, fairly reasonable rates as well.
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| Old fishing camp, preserved by the national park |
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| the town of Bayfield Wisconsin most of the tours boats and ferries leave out of this harbor |
All worth exploring, but as mentioned would probably do it a bit differently next time around
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| Ashland, impressive murals around the historic town |
Ashland Wisconsin is a nice historic town with lots of great people murals throughout the fairly large downtown area. They have a city park campground but as usual, it was full up. Tried using their overflow area down at a boat ramp/dock parking area. Great during the daylight hours, a few locals came by to fish or swim in the bay. Unfortunately, after the sun went down, the drug dealers and a gang of half a dozen trucks lines up in the parking lot where I’d planned to spend the night. Even after paying the $20 fee, I felt so uncomfortable, I decide to leave. Fortunately, I’d already checked out a plan B. A Kwik gas station that permits overnight stays in their parking lot. Well lit and it was open 24 hours. A pair of earplugs and I slept though any noise that might have occurred throughout the night.
Though I think it was pretty quiet after the local traffic died down.
